Taiwan Stroll – Taichung: Wufeng Lin’s Family Mansion and Wufeng Lin’s Yipu Mansion
看到聲聲不息寶島季裡面有一位歌手到台中霧峰林家的大花廳表演之後，我就對霧峰林家非常有興趣，剛好這次暑假回台灣有計畫要去台中玩，因此探訪霧峰林家是必去的景點。由於在郊區，所以如果住在台中市區一定要開車過去，不知道是google map都只告訴我們小條的路，還是在台中郊區的路就是這麼狹窄，我們不是走田間的小路就是走吵雜的小街道。這裡停車也很不好停，還好霧峰林家有提供付費停車場。去參觀霧峰林家，一定要參加導覽，導覽員的故事和豐富的知識，才可以讓你深刻的了解林家的歷史。
豪門深宮真的非常的深！從門要從哪個門進去都有規定，而且房子有分好幾進，每一進都有每一進的功用，像是會客的地方，拜祖先的地方，家中婦女生活的地方。林家還分下厝跟頂厝，在去以前我傻傻的以為買一張票就可以看霧峰林家，到了以後才知道一般大眾知道的霧峰林家是指最有名的下厝武官官邸—林家宮保第，然而霧峰林家其實還包括頂厝，就是宮保第隔壁的林家頤圃以及比較遠的林獻堂的博物館園區。很可惜的是，下厝的武官後代和頂厝文官的後代不能達到共識，造成霧峰林家有兩個組織在管理，我們這些遊客不能買一張票就參觀所有的建築物，實在很可惜，我們也是一頭霧水，為什麼霧峰林我們家是分兩個。由於時間有限，我們只能參觀相鄰的兩個園區，一個是林家宮保第，一個是林家頤圃。導遊跟我們說，宮保第是在清朝就建好的，然後慢慢後代越蓋越多，而林家頤圃是比較近代興建的日治時代建築，可以很明顯的看出兩間風格完全不同。林家宮保第偏像傳統中式建築，而頤圃則是有很濃厚西方建築的元素，更有日式建築的影子。
導遊說在１９９９年的９２１大地震摧毀了大部分宮保第的建築，我一邊看著一邊讚嘆著，修復團隊可以這樣把建築物從廢墟修復成原來的樣子，我真的一點都看不出來，深深以為這是原始的一磚一瓦。頤圃也難逃一劫，但在修復團隊的巧手下，也是回復原狀，非常的令人佩服。
在當時根深蒂固的華人傳統觀念影響下，宮保第看得出對女人的各種不平等待遇。例如選丈夫的時候，女孩不能大大方方的在大廳跟外人一起會面，而是要躲在一旁的小房間裡，偷偷看著未來可能成為自己的夫婿。連看個戲曲，也只能隔著竹簾在樓上透過竹簾縫隙，似有似無的看著表演，生活的地方也有特定的區域。雖然很欽佩這些美麗的歷史建築物，但是看到過去體制對女性的種種限制又感到不平。相較之下，頤園看得出對女性多了一些的尊重，當時的林家主人為了從日本遠嫁來台灣的夫人打造了一間日式房間，希望可以撫慰夫人的思鄉之情。很可惜時間不夠，不能去看剩下的霧峰林家的園區，希望下次還有機會。
After seeing a singer performing at the Dahuating Hall of the Lin Family Mansion in Wufeng, Taichung, featured in the “Infinity and Beyond” series, I became very interested in visiting the Lin Family Mansion. Fortunately, during my summer visit to Taiwan, I had plans to explore Taichung, making a visit to the Lin Family Mansion a must-see attraction.
Located in the outskirts of the city, it’s essential to drive there if you’re staying in downtown Taichung. We relied on Google Maps, which guided us through country roads in the fields and bustling side streets. Parking in the area is challenging, but thankfully, the Lin Family Mansion provides a paid parking lot.
When visiting the Lin Family Mansion, taking a guided tour is a must. The tour guides share captivating stories and extensive knowledge that help you gain a deep understanding of the history of the Lin family.
The Lin family’s home is an estate with various sections, each serving a specific purpose. These include reception areas, ancestral halls, and spaces for the family’s women. Wufeng Lin’s family is divided into two sections: the “Lower” ( official’s residence – Gongbaodi) and the “Upper” ( scholar’s residence – including Yipu). Prior to my visit, I was unaware of this division.
Unfortunately, due to time constraints, I could only explore two adjacent areas: Lin’s Family Gongbaodi Mansion and Lin’s Yipu Mansion.
The Gongbaodi, constructed during the Qing Dynasty, features traditional Chinese architectural elements. In contrast, the Yibu, built during the Japanese colonial period, displays a distinct blend of Western and Japanese architectural styles.
Our guide mentioned that the 921 Earthquake in 1999 severely damaged many of the Gongbaodi’s structures. The restoration efforts were so skillful that you can hardly tell any damage occurred. The Yibu also faced its share of challenges but was beautifully restored by a talented team.
During my tour, I couldn’t help but notice the gender inequalities embedded in the Lin Family Mansion’s traditions. For instance, young women choosing husbands had to hide in small rooms, sneakily observing potential suitors without engaging in direct conversation in the main hall. Even enjoying operatic performances required women to watch discreetly through bamboo curtains. The living quarters were also segregated by gender. While I admired the historical architecture, I couldn’t help but feel saddened by the limitations imposed on women during that era.
In contrast, the Lin Family Yibu Mansion demonstrated a bit more respect for women. The family’s patriarch, in an attempt to ease his wife’s homesickness after moving from Japan to Taiwan, created a Japanese-style room within the residence. It’s unfortunate that time constraints prevented me from exploring the rest of the Lin Family Mansion’s complex. I hope to return in the future to discover the remaining areas.
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