這個暑假跟著島內散步@walkin.taiwan 去了兩次大稻埕，每一次去大稻埕都給我很多的驚艷。 這兩次讓我更了解原來大稻埕的人因為在艋舺和另一群人有械鬥，才敗逃到這裏來重建家園的。導覽跟我們說當年由於艋舺的河川淤積，使得經濟重心都移到大稻埕來，而因為商業逐漸繁榮，大老闆有了錢，就會把錢花在吃的和玩的上面，因此就出現越來越多好吃的餐廳和可以應酬交際的舞廳。大稻埕有很多的低調大地主，有時候把店面租給你，不只是要看房租可以出多少，還要看你的人和你的產業可不可跟大稻埕有相互應的關係。所以不是任何產業都可以進駐大稻埕的，這些老房東們看的層面更廣更遠，一直以來都很努力的在維持大稻埕的傳承，我覺得這份精神非常的值得尊敬。
在我的年輕歲月時根本沒聽過大稻埕，因為當時的經濟重心都在東區，當時的年輕人愛去百貨公司逛街，愛去看電影和唱歌。沒想到在我居住美國的二十年內，這樣有文化的老街區慢慢的被現在的年輕人發現了，這些這麼美的歷史和這麼有特色的建築物被越來越多人看見，我台灣感到驕傲。聽著導覽的故事，讓我更了解我的家鄉，感謝島內散步@walkin.taiwan 的團隊。
This summer, I took two tours with @walkin.taiwan around Taipei’s Dadaocheng district, and each visit left me in awe. Every trip to Dadaocheng revealed more about the history of this area, particularly how its residents came here to rebuild their homes after conflicts with another group in the nearby district of Monga (Wanhua).
Our tour guide explained that, back in the day, due to sediment buildup in the rivers around Monga, the economic center gradually shifted to Dadaocheng. With increasing prosperity came well-to-do business owners who spent their wealth on fine dining and entertainment. Consequently, the area saw the emergence of more and more delectable restaurants and social halls for gatherings.
Dadaocheng was home to many discreet and influential landowners. When leasing their properties, these landlords didn’t just consider the rental income but also evaluated the tenant’s character and how their business would contribute to the neighborhood. Thus, not all types of businesses were allowed to establish themselves here. These property owners were committed to preserving the heritage of Dadaocheng, and I find this spirit truly admirable.
During my younger years, I had never heard of Dadaocheng because the economic focus was primarily on Taipei’s eastern district. Young people at the time favored shopping at department stores, watching movies, and going singing, so Dadaocheng was largely overlooked. However, over the past twenty years while I was living in the United States, it’s heartwarming to see that younger generations have begun to discover and appreciate this culturally rich old district.
The increasing recognition of Dadaocheng’s historical significance and unique architecture makes me proud of Taiwan. Listening to our guide’s stories allowed me to gain a deeper understanding of my hometown, and I’m truly grateful to the team @walkin.taiwan for making this possible.
Pic 1. 原來我們小時候常去吃的海霸王，它紅色霓虹燈大招牌只剩這家有了。以前總不覺得它是很美麗的，長大了來欣賞它才欣賞出它的美麗。
Pic 2. 由於艋舺的河川淤積，使得經濟重心都移到大稻埕來
Pic 3 連7-11也要把自己的招牌換成跟大稻埕對稱的設計。
Pic 4. 我在台北長大卻從沒聽過鼎鼎大名的馬來亞餐廳，樓上的新加坡舞廳更是高消費場所，是有錢的大老闆跟客戶談生意的地方。
Pic 5. 霞海城隍爺是大稻埕的人信仰，保佑經商的人，後來慢慢的也開始祭拜月老，城隍廟的月老太紅了，讓大家很常忘記原來霞海城隍廟是拜城隍爺的！大門上的門神也都是大有來頭，我都不知道原來門神都是由一群默默付出的大師做出來的，他們的眼睛是用特別的技術叫做四方眼來畫出來的，使得門神的眼睛不管你走到哪都一直在看著你。
Pic 6. 有歷史的建築+新來的熱血=有魔法的藥水
Pic 7. 前身是黑美人大酒店的黑美人小茶棧
Pic 1. Back in the day, this was the place we frequented as kids, the “Hai Ba Wang” (King of the Seas) restaurant. This iconic large red neon sign is the only one left in their buildings now. We never really thought of it as beautiful back then, but as we’ve grown up, we’ve come to appreciate its beauty.
Pic 2. Due to sediment buildup in the rivers around Monga, the economic center gradually shifted to Dadaocheng
Pic 3. Even 7-11 convenience stores changed their signs to match the design of Dadaocheng.
Pic 4. I grew up in Taipei, yet I’d never heard of the renowned “Malaya Restaurant.” The Singapore dance hall upstairs is even more upscale, a place where wealthy bosses would discuss business with their clients.
Pic 5. The City God, or Chenghuangye, of Xia Hai Cheng Huang Temple is a significant figure of faith for the people of Dadaocheng. He blesses those engaged in business. Gradually, people also began to worship the Matchmaker God, and the Matchmaker in the Cheng Huang Temple became so popular that many people forgot it was originally for Chenghuangye! The door gods above the temple gates also have quite a history. I never knew that these door gods were created by a group of skilled artisans who worked quietly. Their eyes are drawn using a special technique called “four-sided eyes,” making the eyes of the door gods follow you wherever you go.
Pic 6. The predecessor of this place was the “Black Beauty Tea House” of the Black Beauty House.
Pic 7. Historic architecture + new blood = a magical potion
