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Ecobee   Smart thermostat Installation in an Old Trane PTAC

Last November my Trane PTAC stopped working for me. I thought it was a great chance to upgrade my thermostat to a smart one as well. Most of my friends use Nest but my PTAC guy recommended Ecobee so I went ahead and loved IT! Therefore, I decided I want to do it for my daughter’s PTAC but my PTAC technician told me it is not worthy his time and my money to invest an Ecobee on a 15 years old machine. That’s when I thought I could do it myself so I started to research. However, there are not many tutorials out there to guide people to install a smart thermostat on a PTAC so I hope my experience can help someone who is looking for installing a smart thermostat in a nontraditional way.

Unit DIP Switches The Trane PTAC has a series of seven DIP (Dual In-Line Package) Switches that provide a wide array of unit features. The table below summarizes the function of each switch. Following the table is a short explanation of what each switch does. Note that the position of a DIP Switch that is in the ON position is up.
1. First, you must find the manual because it contains important information about how to set up the PTAC to be remote thermostat ready. Based on the diagram, Switch number 5 and 6 are the ones that I need to pay attention to.
Control Location Switches The control location switches are used to indicate where the unit will read the mode, setpoint, and temperature inputs. Review the switch settings below and configure appropriately. Below is a table detailing the settings for switches 5 and 6. For more information on operating the PTAC with a remote thermostat or Zone Sensor, refer to the Remote Thermostat/Zone Sensor Operation subsection in this section.
2. Control Location Switches Diagram. I tells me that SW5 and SW6 need to be “ON” for my purpose and I didn’t touch any setting for the rest of the switches.
Control Board User Inputs The following diagram shows the low-voltage control inputs available on the Trane PTAC. Front Desk Control, Zone Sensing, Remote Thermostat, and Door Switch/ Occupancy Sensing, as well as additional features are all controlled from this location.Remote Thermostat Operation TheGL,GH,O,W,Y,R,andC terminals provide control inputs for a remote wall mounted thermostat.
3. Control Board User Inputs first half. This diagram tells me that CN-ZONE is the location the zone control wired to and CN-EXT1 is the new location that my smart thermostat needs to be wired to.
Control Board User Inputs The following diagram shows the low-voltage control inputs available on the Trane PTAC. Front Desk Control, Zone Sensing, Remote Thermostat, and Door Switch/ Occupancy Sensing, as well as additional features are all controlled from this location.Remote Thermostat Operation TheGL,GH,O,W,Y,R,andC terminals provide control inputs for a remote wall mounted thermostat.
4. Control Board User Inputs second half. This table tells me that what do “GL”, “GH”, “O”, “W”, “Y”, “R”, “C” mean in the CN-EXT1 location.
Trane Packed Terminal Air Conditioner PTACPTED1201WCA Zone Control Unit
5. This is my old PTAC thermostat “zone control” which attached to the top of my PTAC.
This shows where the zone control unit is wired to on the control board. There are also a control unit on top of the control board but it is not connected to the board.
6. This shows where the zone control unit is wired to on the control board.
This shows a close-up of the wires and control board. The DIP switches are the black rectangle at the center with 1 to 7 white switches
7. A close-up look of the control board and the DIP switches.
This shows the 4 Pin Rectangular Power Connector of the Zone Control Unit.
8. I unplugged the Rectangular Power Connector of the Zone Control Unit.
This shows I am holding two 4 pins connector.
9. I took the 4 pins connector from the broken PTAC that was in my room and the other one from my kid’s room.
This shows two 4 pins connectors forming a 8 pin connector is plugged into a 7 pin input.
10. I joint two 4 pins connectors together because I can’t find a 7 pin connector that fits my control board.
This shows the wires are labeled and properly attached to wire connectors and tapes.
11. I labeled the wires that I needed to use and attached the unused wires with wire connectors.
This shows the wires are labeled based on the diagrams.
12. I labeled the wires referred to the diagram’s instruction. GL – Fan Low. GH – Fan High. W- Heating Input. R – 24 VAC. Y- Compressor Input. C – Common.
This shows how the wires are connected on the Ecobee's back plate.
13. I plugged the wires to the proper terminals. The wires that the Ecobee used were 18/7 Brown Solid CU CL2 Thermostat Wire.
This shows labeled 18/7 Brown Solid CU CL2 Thermostat Wire.
14. I labeled the wires in the 18/7 Brown Solid CU CL2 Thermostat Wire. GL – Fan Low. GH – Fan High. W- Heating Input. R – 24 VAC. Y- Compressor Input. C – Common.
This shows the wires from the PTAC control board and the wires from Ecobee are connected with wire connectors.
15. The wires from the PTAC control board and the wires from Ecobee were connected with wire connectors. Please make sure C goes with C, W goes with W etc…Please make sure any wire that is not connected to anything needs to be connected to a wire connectors and secured with electrical tapes.
This shows the ecobee is now ready to turn on.
16. After wiring and checking everything was secured with wire connectors, I moved away anything that’s flammable and plugged in the PTAC unit. Once the PTAC was on, Ecobee turned on too.
This shows ecobee will ask you to register an account using the code it shows you.
17. Ecobee showed me a code and I used it to register on ecobee.com.
This shows which wires are connected to ecobee.
18. I only needed to wire 5 terminals. That is the reason it only shows 5 terminals are connected. G – Fan High. W1- Heating Input. Rc – 24 VAC. Y1- Compressor Input. C – Common.
This shows Ecobee on a stand and it shows 74 degree.
19. I hid all the wires in the PTAC unit and instead of installing Ecobee on the wall, I purchased a stand to put my Ecobee. The wires went from bottom of the stand and were connected to the Ecobee‘s back plate.